Steve Burt

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  • #185828
    Steve Burt
    Participant

    The supplied ratlines and sails stay on fine. The sails are thick paper. Gel superglue works well for sails and ratlines. I use thin wire for rigging rather than thread as I find it easier and it also strengthens the models a lot.

    Basing the ships helps a lot with protecting them, and also means you don’t touch the model when picking it up; it also give you somewhere to put the label with the ship’s name.

    #185571
    Steve Burt
    Participant

    Turned out to be academic. Out of 40 bombing dice rolled, only 3 6s came up, and not two at the same time.

    On the other hand, out of about 30 light flak, there were no 6s at all

    #182401
    Steve Burt
    Participant

    How does this work if the ship leaves off the downwind edge of the board (probably the commonest case?). There isn’t an ‘upwind’ direction along that edge.

    #173612
    Steve Burt
    Participant

    Could carronades actually load chain shot? I’m pretty sure they couldn’t be double shotted.

    #172674
    Steve Burt
    Participant

    We gave +2 to all privateer ships for all boarding actions – otherwise it is almost impossible for them to win.

    #172642
    Steve Burt
    Participant

    Just increase the cost of all English vessels would be my advice.

    #172616
    Steve Burt
    Participant

    I should also add, the current tacking rules are fine for brisk winds; square riggers had a hard time tacking in a brisk wind and would probably wear instead of tacking.

    #172597
    Steve Burt
    Participant

    Battle sails when closed hauled is not realistic at all; in fact sailing within 45 degrees of the wind is not realistic for a square rigger; fore and aft rig can do that, square rig is more like 60 degrees off the wind.
    What square rigged ships did do was turn a little away from the wind to get seaway, then put the helm over, but that’s not the same as battle sails. I think +2 to skill tests for tacking is fine (but not if you’ve lost a mast! That should pretty much make tacking impossible). Tacking should be slow and carry a risk of either ‘falling off’ back to the original tack or being caught in irons and drifting downwind.

    #172281
    Steve Burt
    Participant

    You can get schooners, sloops, gunboats, shore defences etc all in 1:700 for very reasonable prices here:
    https://www.hagen-miniatures.de/tabletop-schiffe/napoleonische-epoche/schiffe/?page=2

    It’s in German, but I’m sure you can all manage

    #172177
    Steve Burt
    Participant

    It’s from the latest FAQ, as clarified by Andy Chambers on the Facebook group:
    Q: When do Multi Engine Aircraft get damaged?
    A: REMEMBER: A shooting attack can be conducted against a Multi Engine Aircraft regardless of its advantage level relative to the shooter (Para 2 Page 10 Expanded Rules).
    A multi engine that is shot at, hit and fails to dodge loses advantage levels until they get to disadvantaged, but no Boom chits are generated. Hits while disadvantaged start to place
    boom chits directly on the aircraft itself. Each boom chit reduces Speed and turret firepower by one, also damaged multi engine planes can no longer be Advantaged (i.e. they might climb back up to neutral but no further). Once the number of boom chits equals the number of engines it has, the multi engine plane crashes, generating another boom chit. (E.g. an
    Advantaged twin engine bomber would go through these stages – Advantaged – Neutral – Disadvantaged – 2 x Engines – Crash)

    Andy’s clarification:
    Yes the change in wording was/is deliberate, if you’re hit by shooting while disadvantaged in a multi you take damage. I think there are some Ace skills that can wheedle you out of taking damage in a disadvantaged multi but a normal dodge won’t do it.

    #172130
    Steve Burt
    Participant

    The other thing about agile multi-engine planes which I had missed is that once disadvantaged they don’t get to dodge any more – they just take boom chits when hit.

    #171747
    Steve Burt
    Participant

    I have splash markers for WW1 and WW2 games (1:3000 scale). I made them by gluing a small screw to a washer, then covering the screw bit with acrylic texture gel. Paint blue/green and then highlight with white. I don’t think cannonballs make big splashes like 12″ shells, though.

    #171519
    Steve Burt
    Participant

    If using the advanced sailing rules, then there’s no choice about level of sails; you must be on light sails as you come out of the tack.
    The advanced sailing rules are no more complex and a lot more realistic.

    #171503
    Steve Burt
    Participant

    When an entangled (or grappled) ship activates it can make a skill test if it wantw to disengage; if it succeeds, it can move off. I think it says somewhere to put the two ships parallel after a collision, so either can move off if it makes the test.
    I think the rules say re-roll if you get the same critical twice.

    #171501
    Steve Burt
    Participant

    Home advantage is over-powered; I feel the game works better if you only get to use it once.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 67 total)