Kit Bashing Figures – Easy Peasy or a PIA ?

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  • #187820
    Jim Ripley
    Participant

    That sounds very cool Allan . Do you have any pictures to share ? I think  SOLIDO metal military vehicles  would work with BA as they are close to 1/56 IRC . Of course when they were available in stores I was building  1/35 scale kits , the only one I managed to find at a swap meet  is an AMX  13 tank , nice body detail but lousy tracks IMO . Probably hard to find them now as mine was made in 1975 .

    I finally got around to adding tank riders to my extra  JPanther hull  ,  I got 9 figures to fit . The 4 standing figures had their legs swapped around  , the 2 seated figures used the upper torsos from the FJ kit and the legs with short boots from the plastic seated German set . I used the legs with the jack boots on my seated Russian figures . So much easier than trying to covert standing to seated figures so watch out for them during the Sprue sales . The 3 man kneeling MG team are loose so can be used on the table top . It was a bit trial and error getting the look I wanted , I ended up using  arms from most all of the German plastic sets .

    • This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by Jim Ripley.
    • This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by Jim Ripley.
    • This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by Jim Ripley.
    #187828
    Alan Hamilton
    Participant

    Not sure how to attach pictures.

    The kurzer 8 cm Granatwerfer 42 Team – figures from the German Heer Grenadiers and maybe Blitzkrieg sets.  Mortar is a 1/76 Matchbox mortar shortened and slightly detailed.  The Mortar bomb might be a British PIAT round (it was in the bits box.

    Matchbox Dingo scout cars and Dinky Daimlers

    Pound shop jeeps

    Project Z female survivors rearmed as part of my “Last Defenders of the Reich”

    Not WW2 but some Fantasy bodies with Russian heads rearmed with German weapons to be survivors in Zombie games

    Some Romans given WW2 German gas mask cases and various WW2 packs and pouches to become Capsarii (battlefield medics)

    • This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by Alan Hamilton. Reason: Correcting photos so you can see them!
    #187937
    GeneralJimbo81
    Participant

    As this is thread is about Kit bashing thought I’d upload one of the things I’m currently working on which is a Home Guard force (Sea Lion / Gigant book).
    I am not a greatly skilled modeler but this kind of kit bash + I can do.

    The first 2 pics are my Volunteer AT squad complete with No68 AT grenade launcher (a SMLE with cup grenade launcher).
    All models use the older British Infantry sprues as the base. Originally I was going to use the newer kit with old arms but it didn’t look right so bought another box of the older models (actually I got 30 as it came with an extra sprue and weapons frame).
    Weapons are metal and came from Colonel Bills. The SMLEs had the bayonets cut off and filed down.
    The Rile Grenade launcher then had the cup discharger cut from another Colonel Bills Rifle Grenade launcher pinned and glued on (this was from a very odd weapon set I bought a while back for another item in it) . Finally some Cu wire from an old set of headphones was wound around the stock as the bracing. The firing arm had to be bent (well straightened technically) and filled with some putty (it was hollow backed and didn’t sit well at the shoulder).
    The Molotov is a straight arm swap and a Soviet arm which has the Molotov. I also used a Soviet arm as his other arm as noticed the Soviet arms seemed that bit chunkier than the Brit ones and wanted them to match.
    Finally the 2 that don’t have the Grenade launcher had the bayonets on the side of their Gas mask case changed for one from the Commonwealth (or 8th Army) infantry sprue more correct for the SMLE. The Grenade launcher didn’t get this for 2 reasons 1. I figured he cant have a bayonet and the Cup Launcher fitted. 2. Most importantly I’d already stuck it on before I thought about the bayonet being wrong.
    This about my skill level so next step is to prime and paint them.

    Finally the last model is my first WIP for the rest of the Home Guard. Its a very simply using the Springfield from the US weapons sprue to represent M1917s issued (in 30.06) to Home Guard. At 28mm / 1/56 the difference between the M1917 and Springfield are virtually indistinguishable anyway. When I paint them they’ll have a red stripe around the stock behind the muzzle as was done in the war to stop them being confused with Rifle No3’s (1914 pattern Enfields) which is identical to the M1917 (except the latter was re chambered for 30.06 rather than .303 and as a result could get a 6th round in its mag). I will also use the US infantry spues for BARs as some of the squad support weapons as BARs (Als0 in 30.06) werealso issued to Home Guard.

    Anyway hope you like

    #187976
    Kar98k
    Participant

    Originally I was going to use the newer kit with old arms but it didn’t look right so bought another box of the older models (actually I got 30 as it came with an extra sprue and weapons frame).

    I can relate to this. In another thread I had mentioned, “… but more importantly this makes their newer plastic figures less compatible with their earlier plastic figures. ” This was in response to the newer plastic infantry sets they were releasing. You can read about this here:

    #188118
    Simon
    Participant

    I was rather disappointed with the ‘Molotov Cocktails’ in the Naval Section set; they are petrol bombs, complete with wicks!  My first move was to simply remove the wicks and paint the bottle tops red, but this made two of the figures look like sailors out on the razz on Unionstrasse* of a Saturday night.  For my second set I replace two of the hands holding the bottles with hands (from the British/Canadian sprue) holding grenades; the third had his left arm replaced with the arm holding a pair of binoculars and had just become the section’s sniper -he is in my profile picture.

    I too did a lot of Airfix ‘kit bashing’ and currently have an Airfix Churchill sitting on my bench waiting to be turned into a Churchill APC.

    *Union Street in Plymouth, where the pubs are; and hence sailors.

     

    Simon.

    #188169
    GeneralJimbo81
    Participant

    Month or more posted this article. Thought I’d post some updated pics now I’ve painted up the AT team and my first small unit of Home Guard.

    #188253
    Jim Ripley
    Participant

    Those look really good .  It’s a pity the early Brits and Germans aren’t compatable with the later plastics .. although  I have used some of the arms on Rubicon figures . You never know where you’re going to find bits that work .  Anybody tried cross kiting Wargames Atlantic arms with Warlord figures ?

    Not done much hobby most of the summer but then went crazy in late September building a M3 Halftrack , a Matilda , a BMW motorbike , a half dozen Waffen SS & Brit Paras . Although the figure kits go together great . I’m not really liking all the molded on weapons , really cuts down on the kitbashing . Might have to pick up a box of Russians and Blitzkrieg Germans just for the weapon free arms .

    Over the last couple of days I’ve been working on Russian tank riders  for a couple of my own tanks as well as a buddy’s . I’ve managed to make 24 so far with very few leg swaps .

     

    #188260
    Kar98k
    Participant

    It’s a pity the early Brits and Germans aren’t compatable with the later plastics .. although I have used some of the arms on Rubicon figures.

    Funny you should mention this. This was one of the points in the Stop the Madness thread:

    I’m not really liking all the molded on weapons , really cuts down on the kitbashing.

    Some players don’t like having to add the separate weapons and prefer the molded on weapons, and I agree, but I also like the separate weapons and I have never had an issue in adding these to make it look like they are already molded on. I good idea I think would be to offer a combination of separate weapons and a few common posed molded on weapons.

    Over the last couple of days I’ve been working on Russian tank riders for a couple of my own tanks as well as a buddy’s . I’ve managed to make 24 so far with very few leg swaps.

    Those look great. I have been wanting to make some tank riders myself. However, I would like to be able to remove them from the tank model. What is the best way for doing this without them falling off every time you move the tank model?

    #188261
    Jim Ripley
    Participant

    I build my figures to fit in a specific spot on a specific tank so I tend to glue them on . That being said I do have a few generic seated figures that can be put anywhere if needed .  I have had a few ideas for removable figure groups  though . Tiny rice grain sized magnets might work  in the figures feet if the plastic engine deck is very thin , probably wouldn’t work on resin tanks . I guess you could drill a hole in the deck and add your magnet but that would ruin the detail , not a problem when the troops are mounted but would look crap IMO when the troops are removed . You could drill tiny holes in the tank and mount pins in your figure’s feet . again the deck would look crap when troops dismounted . You could mount the troops on a thin plastic base ( maybe clear ) , easy to add . easy to remove . looks ?

    You could glue the figures to each other so they end up in a 5 or 6 man set and maybe pin a foot or 2 to ensure they don’t fall of easily . although that would mean each set would custom  fit to a specific tank .

    As I have said before I don’t play Bolt Action so I have no need to have removable tank riders ,  but if I did play I would have use 2 tanks , both, weathered, decaled and covered in stowage the same , one with glued on tank riders , the other empty . I would also have figures identical to the riders mounted on ground bases to use when dismounted .  I’ve done the same with Japanese figures in fox holes , I use a removable half figure  ( torso ) in the hole and have an identical painted and armed full figure for when they charge thus leaving an empty fox hole . This also means your fox hole is only 1/2 to 3/4 inch above the table unlike those GW trenches which IMO look like crap

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 4 weeks ago by Jim Ripley.
    • This reply was modified 1 month, 4 weeks ago by Jim Ripley.
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