Not much coming through recently, some issues at home that have diverted my painting time, so here's a post of a September Commision, not previously plastered up on the forums.
The Warlord 25pdr set, is lovely, I have modified the GT with the addition of canvas tilt and frame, traversing wheel brackets and some odds and sods. There was a requirement for removal of crew, so i knocked up a simple base, crew are on "penny" washers.
I have a boatload of Warlord German and Allied vehicles in progress, its just a bit slow at the moment, my blog is probably the best place for early looks.
Most weatherimg is usually done with weathering powders. I have quite a fair amount of experience using these products becasue I began using them on model railroard stock before I started using them on military objects. If anyone is seriously contemplateing weathering then I would recommend obtaining AFV modelling magazines as they usually have step by step guides on al aspects of AFV painting. Mig themselves have done a instructional pamphlet which is downloadable from the web. They have done also an excellent DVD called FAQ which is also excellent. A sister company ( forgot their name) have also now done FAQ 2 on AFV painting.
This subject is best done on a trial and error basis until you get the results that YOU want. The reason I emphasised the you bit is that everyone has different tastes when it comes to weathering.
Just my thoughts on the subject.
Back on subject. Very nice 25 pounder which would grace any battlefieled. The weathering looks fantastic.
Unfortunately the techniques i use are neither sequential or perscriptive which makes tutorials difficult, although i always answer specific questions as best i can and have done on the various fora and email. As pointed out pigments have been used here, but just like an airbrush is just one tool of many in the box, and yes all I have learnt over the years mainly starts with the 1/35 "real" modelling domain and yes, even model railways. However, as posted before, pigments for these scales are not the be all and end all and certainly not the silver bullet everyone expects, more often than not they can be a detriment to the final finish. Pigments are not that enduring, and their effects are stiffled by the various fixing techniques and mediums available. The majority of my work sits in the showcase category and therefore not the frequent gaming category, which plays havoc with them. So getting to the crunch, the majority of the weathering, including the pigment perception is in fact washes, airbrushing and painting which should always be used before any pigments are even opened.
I will give some thought to basic weathering tutorials and tricks of the trade, but to be honest most of it is out there on the forums already.
Last edited by Troop of Shewe on Fri Oct 28, 2011 3:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Troop of Shewe The Showcase Quality Historical Painting Service
The best product I have used to keep the weathering powders in a fixed position without them "disappearing" is the MiG fixer. THe problem with this stuff is that you have to be sure about the finish as once this stuff is applied it can't be altered! When first applied it does darken and make some of the pigments dissappear but with this stuff they all come back and permanent. I recommend trying to place a bit of mud behind the track wheels of a tank first of all when trying this product.
This subject I have always found very difficult to teach
BTW Cubster, you can actually dust over pigmetns with varnish if you use an airbrush at low pressure. It just needs to be incorporated into the application stage. I also mix some fixing medium into mine often, and that works well for longevity too.