Waterslide Decal Tips

[Correus]

Hello Everyone!

It has been at least 30 years since I've attempted a waterslide decal and I was never really very good at it.

Do any of you have any tips or tricks you'd care to share?

Right now I'm looking at this article on Dr. F's site:

http://www.paintingclinic.com/clinic/decals.htm

[Cubster]

This is what I do.

I trim the transfer as close as possible to the edge with some little scissors whilst it's still on the backing paper.
I sit the transfer in a little dish of water and poke it impatiently from time to time, muttering to myself.
The surface for it to sit on is brushed with some water to make it slippery.
When the transfer starts to lift off from the backing paper I tut at it with a comment like "About time," and lift it out with tweezers.
Then I use a brush to flatten the transfer onto the surface and slide it about with my finger a bit until it's exactly where I want it. Then I poke at it with a bit of kitchen paper to soak up the excess water and make sure it sticks in place without sliding about in maverick fashion when my back's turned.

I always like to put a dull wash or a bit of drybrush over it when dry to prevent it looking too bright and clean.

[shadegate]

I agree generally with all he has to say. A very useful article indeed.

I can recommend the use of a setting agent in the right circumstances though. He quite rightly says they are not really necessary on flat surfaces and his demonstration shows a nice flat part of a tank. Where you have compound curves though I find a setting agent to be very useful. (Space Marine shoulder pads spring to mind.)

I am also a railway modeller and when I apply the GWR transfers over the wooden side of a freight wagon a setting solution helps the transfer to sink into the recesses between the planks of wood and look like it's been painted on.

Microsol is my solution of choice. Apply the transfer as normal (Over gloss varnish etc) and apply a few drops to the transfer once it's on the model. Try to keep the transfer horizontal to stop the solution running and leave well alone until dry.

[Biggus Dickus]

I make my own Decals/transfers when i can using a scanner/photoshop and ink jet printer...and decal paper.
But if you already have transfer/decals and just want to make them more useable, This is what i do in both cases.

I would advise you purchase a bottle each of
Microscale Liquid decal film (for making your own decals and also as a top coat on ordinary transfers)
Microscale Micro set
Microscale micro sol

Making your own
If you have an image you want to print out on ink jet paper (I don't know about laser printers)
Print out image
Apply Liquid decal film over all images on paper.
Allow to dry.
(Own or preprinted transfers/decals next stage)
Cut out very closely around image and place in a warm bowl of water, after a minute or so it will separate from paper.
(while you are waiting for this and it soaks) using a paint brush apply "Micro set" to the area where transfer/decal will be placed...it makes placement a bit easier and allows it to slide about, until you are happy.
Once you have the transfer/decal in place apply micro Sol over the top to set it and leave to dry....it may need a second coat..this makes the transfer/decal adhere to any surface as if painted on...very good stuff!
Once dry I guess then you can then add varnish of what ever kind seal you normally use or an additional coat of Liquid decal film to protect the transfer/decal.

[zedeyejoe]

OK, I will wade in.

Don't cut transfers out unless you have to. A cut gives a sudden edge to the transfer instead of the gradual end if the carrier film is left as is.

Do apply to a gloss varnish base as it helps avoid 'silvering' which is air trapped under the transfer that gives it the appearance of a silver background.

I use MicroSet, yes it helps give that perfect finish.

Applying, I hold the transfer over the area I want it to be, hold the transfer with a modelling knife and pull the paper out from under the transfer and lo the transfer just drops onto the area i want it to be.

[grant]

OK, I will wade in.

Don't cut transfers out unless you have to. A cut gives a sudden edge to the transfer instead of the gradual end if the carrier film is left as is.

Do apply to a gloss varnish base as it helps avoid 'silvering' which is air trapped under the transfer that gives it the appearance of a silver background.

I use MicroSet, yes it helps give that perfect finish.

Applying, I hold the transfer over the area I want it to be, hold the transfer with a modelling knife and pull the paper out from under the transfer and lo the transfer just drops onto the area i want it to be.

THe don't cut tip is new and helpful to me! Thanks for that.

[Colonel White]

Some more tips.

Only use quality transfers . If in doubt try one of the transfers on a test piece first .Once you have found a make that you are happy with stick with them.

Dont not use or buy transfers that are "yellowing " . These will be more trouble than their worth and will lead to major dissapointment in most cases.

Do use setting lotions such a Microsol or Humbrol Decal fix. Both good products.

Do varnish the transfer approx 24 hours after application. This really protects it.

Finally use a weathering wash to help blend the transfer into the model.

[mikeland]

.

Finally use a weathering wash to help blend the transfer into the model.

I second this tip (if you can second a tip? ). I have used a wash on the Romans shields and it really helps to blend the decal in.