Which Paint for AFVs

[NTM]

I use matt medium, water and acrylic paint to make my washes.

[Colonel White]

I do recommend the use of Flow Improver with all washes including Devlin Mud. It helps to keep pooling down to a minimum. Others use a soap water mix and that works too.

[NTM]

Not experinced any problems with pooling but that could be because I use the pin wash technique (which can be a bit time consuming) May well pick up some flow improver next time Hobbycraft have a sale (should not have to wait too long for that)

[Comte Michel]

I've also never had a problem with pooling with Devlan Mud - I just wash it over with a wide flat brush, dry the brush on a tissue and then use it to 'wick' off any excess and leave to dry. If you do get flow improver don't forget to dilute it about 10:1 with water before use.

[Parus Ater]

Jobs like that are why every modeller should have a set of syringes.

[Cubster]

Then I shall immerse myself in this eldritch pool, crowded as it is, with gay* abandon.

*In the good old fashioned sense of the word.

I bought some 'Devlan Mud' on Saturday and I've gotta say .... meh.

It was okay, but certainly not what I was hoping for and less than I was expecting from all the attention it receives. I think it's just too thin for me. I already have a jar (one of the wee jam jars from a hotel) full of gunk that I've labelled 'Grimy Ink Wash', which is a mix of brown, black and green inks with some grey and brown paint and water mixed in. It's more concentrated and if I need it thinner ... I'll thin it down. This does for me very well and the 'Devlan Mud' is just like a weak solution of my own wash.

It's not totally wasted because I used it to mix up some more of my wash and fill the jar (should keep me going for a few decades), but it's inferior to what I was already using. Thanks for the tip though guys.

[Colonel White]

I use it far more concentrated than that its fine! It goes into the crevices far more easily without swamping the rear engine decks on tanks.

Devlin Mud+ a little Badab Black +Flow Improver + 1/3 water = fantastic Pin Wash

This process combined with other processes such as the use of Filters and Weathering Powders as put the Wow factor back into my vehicle finishes. My first vehicles using these techniques will be making their debut around Easter for my Brits in our Easter DDay campaign.Until then they are being kept sticktly under wraps along with my colleagues vehicles away from the prying eyes of the German players so they don't know what they will be up against. Walls have ears and so do forums!

[Comte Michel]

I have to admit I'm a bit scared of weathering powders. I used to make 1/35 AFVs for competition and I was always a wash and drybrush man, so I transferred the techniques I knew to the 15mm stuff.

I have this vision of spending hours working on a tank with weathering powders then blowing it all off again with the varnish spray

[Cubster]

Yeah, you need to use pigment fixers if you're going to varnish over the top, or alternatively add the pigments after varnishing and then just top them up as they wear off over time.

[Colonel White]

This is one of the methods I use which was demonstrated but slightly modified by me on the DVD I bought from them some years ago.

1. Mix weathering powders to the desired colour . Then use dust pigment colour( light cloured) to lighten the mix slightly.

2. Add Mig thinners( Red bottle) or Artists grade White spirit( not the stuff obtained from the supermarket for 60p) to the mix to form a wash.

3. Apply wash to vehicle in the natural areas were dust and grime would normally be found with more emphasis on the lower parts of the vehicle eg around the tracks etc.

4. Allow vehicle to dry (over night)
5. Assess the look and remove with stiff brush or add more as in steps 2 &3
6. When happy with overall look then gently "Paint" the Mig Pigment Fixer (blue label) over the weathering powders being careful not to disturd the powders. This is an enamel based liquid which when set will fix the powders permanantly. This ewill also darken the powders slighlty hence the reason it is lightened in step 1.
7. Leave over night after which more powders may be added if the are cetain areas that need more or a diffent colour eg Rust on Exhaust pipes etc.

It does take a little practice but now weathering powders are just second nature too me.